plastic model cars

A:Well, I live on the WEST Coast, but let's open a copy of "Fine Scale Modeler" magazine and check the directory: In New Jersey I find: Z & Z Hobbies in Hamilton: 101 Sloan Ave (609) 586-2282 Kenvil Hobbies in Kenvil: 590 Rt 46 (973) 584-1188 AAA Hobbies & Crafts in Magnolia/ Camden: 706 N. White Horse Pike (856) 435-7645 Maplewood Hobbies in Maplewood: 1970 Springfield Ave. (973) 378-3839 I hope ONE of them is close to YOU and your builder !! GOOD LUCK

A:I have done a lot of business with Squadron.com. They have a good stock of car kits and great service. Finescale Modeler Magazine is another good source of modeling info. From construction tips to finding a local hobby shop. And roadsters.com has some very cool car kits. Have fun!

A:Wal-mart Just repaint it what ever color you want it.

A:For straight cuts it's common to use a razor saw. The wide blade helps keeping the cut straight. Jeweller's saws can be used for more complex cuts or difficult to reach places. The blade is very thin and can snap so be carefull with it. There are also saw blades which can be mounted in hobby knifes. These can also be usefull in tight spots. One more note about the dremel: I would not use it on plastic as it's a bit of an over kill but if you do: use the circular saw blades, not the cutoff disks (like thin grinding stones). These create less heat and you have less risk the disc with shatter. And just for completeness, there are also hotknives in the form of a U bow with heated metal wire or a knife mounted in a soldering iron. I personally wouldn't use those either as the saws give more control. One more edit to react on mjobien's messge below: a filler is a very good suggestion. You will be needing quite a bit of it probably. :) The most common is the body filler with you can get in tubes in scale modelling stores. Just a creme to be smeared into gaps etc. Becomes rockhard be sanded afterwards. If you need to build complex or curved shapes, then you can use epoxy putty (something like two component synthetic clay). Personally I would not recommend GS as it has quite a bit of memory and is harder to sand afterwards. I would go for a hardcuring putty like Milliput, A&B, Magic sculp, Aves, Brown stuff, or Tamiya. These can be sanded afterwards. But I would not recommend green stuff (or kneadatite blue/yellow as it's officially called) for this. GS was optimised for sculpting organic figures which have to survive vulcanisation. As such it has a fair bit of memory and stay a little rubbery afterward making it hard to sand. I would suggest a putty like A&B, aves, Magic sculp or Milliput. These putties can be softened and smoothed with water and will be sandable after curing. They are not as strong as GS, so if you want the best of both worlds go for 1:1 GS with one of the hard putties. Another filler is the body filler you can get in scale modelling stores.

A:MOST model car kits (99%) come with the plastic parts molded in the approximate colors... so you don't NEED to paint it. HOWEVER, to make it look truly realistic, you WILL want to paint it. I suggest that before you buy your KIT, you go to your local model-hobby store and buy a "beginners" book on model car construction and painting. The book will walk you through the tools, equipment and techniques to apply a successful paint-job as well as build the model effeciently. GOOD LUCK and ENJOY your new Hobby