kelly blue book used cars

A:There is tha NADA.... (stands for the National Automobile Dealers Associoation) blue book... its comparable... but no matter which you use you need to know everything about how to use them accurately.... retail means on a dealers lot usually all the major defects have been corrected if known... and also that the car has been detailed and cleaned thouroughly this is why retail is a lot more than private party value.. remember to deduct off the price reference for known defects in both parts cost & labor to correct the problem from the blue book quote for each thing you know is wrong with it that you're not going to spend money to correct... this is what is known as an adjusted value... if you do not know the vehicles defects take it to an ASE Certified mechanic for inspection and report... for what needs done or fixed etc. Walt

A:every year when new dars dome out they are given a value, and this the value gets broken down into milage. condition. paperwork. up keep. and age after its taken off the lot (aka sold) there are actually two values red book which is what dealerships can charge for resale or give during a trade in, and then there is blue book which is a "private" sale value set for someone who wants to sell or buy a used car...

A:Kelley Blue Book is just a "guide". However a very good one. For instance, banks look at "book value" (Kelley value) when determining what a car is worth and therefore what amount they will finance. So, if a car has a Kelley retail value of $15,000 and the dealership is trying to sell it at exactly $15,000 the bank will turn down the loan because after tax, title, tags, warranty, GAP, etc. you are WAY OVER the value of the new car. Also, if you are trading a car in and you are "upside down" (you owe more than the car is worth) the difference is being added to the new vehicle loan which means that once again you are WAY OVER the new car's value and the bank won't do that. This is why dealerships are always pushing you for "down payment." This brings down the amount you are asking the bank for and therefore the bank will say yes and the dealership doesn't have to lose money discounting the car! Dealerships also look at the NADA (National Associationg of Dealer Auctions) to see what a car is going for on the auction circuit. This affects your trade-in value. For instance if Kelley Blue Book says your car is worth $5,000, but at auction there's 7 listed at $3,000, the dealership is NOT going to give you $5,000 because then they risk having to eat $2,000! Bottom line. DO NOT pay full Kelley retail value for a car. Tell the dealership you'll pay a little over wholesale value. And know your trade-in value, but expect to get at least $500 below what Kelley says it's worth. For tips on negotiating for a deal you can visit my site here: http://www.1-800badcredit.com/car-negotiating-insider-tips.html I sold cars for 3 years in Phoenix and know all the tricks of the trade! If you have any other questions feel free to email me and I'll answer them as best I can! Good luck!

A:If you have your mechanic inspect it, and he gives it a 100% clean bill of health, the MOST you should go on the car is $3500-4000 plus taxes and fees. Honestly, I wouldnt go over $3k. But if you really like it, you may step up. Again, the thing has to get a perfect bill of health. If hte mechanic says it needs $1000 worth of work , then take the 1000 off the offer. Good luck!

A:I use three things both of what you have mentioned and my own eyes. A lot has to do with your part of the country. but both are pretty close I some times take the average of the both of them