classic used car value

A:Go to www.classiccars.com and enter your data into the search boxes. I found two Eldorado's without trying too hard. If the odometer is straight across , it is true. If your numbers are staggered like this 1 3 5 it has been turned back or turned 2 4 over 100,000.

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A:Greetings ! It depends on what you are asking for, titling and licensing purposes or insurance purposes... here's the scoop on both: As licensing is a state by state issue, it all depends where you live, or by insurance company if you plan to have it insured. For example, I live in Ohio, and for licensing and regisistration purposes, any car 25 years old can be considered an "antique" and qualifies for "historical" plates, or you can even use the same plates from the year your car is made as your actual plates (I bought a set of 1966 Ohio plates on eBay and they are now the official plates on my 1966 Galaxie 500 XL). There are limitations though, typically that it isn't regular transportation and drive to/from car shows and the occasional sunday drive. Here in OH, you pay $10 for historical plates and they are good forever. For "classic" status, your plates say "classic" at the bottom and you can only drive 2500 miles per year. For insurance companies, it all depends. I am insured with Hagerty (www.hagerty.com) and I even have my 1985 LeSabre insured through them. Insurance is ultra cheap (typically $150/year with a $0 deductible for comp/coll), but the car must be kept in a locked garage when not in use, and there are restrictions on drivers (nobody under 25). Newer cars are typically required to be strictly stock. There are other companies out there too, but I can say I had a claim with hagerty and have been very impressed. If your Solara is low production, you may want to inquire. I know there are clubs dedicated to the Pontiac Fieros of the 1980s and like my 1985 LeSabre Collector Edition. Selling now or holding on to it... The prices of many muscle cars of the 1960s that were fairly cheap in the 1980s now fetch $50K-$100K now. Most of us have old cars simply for the joy of owning a classic. A general rule of thumb is don't buy a car solely as an investment. If it is popular with your generation now, it will likely be popular with that same generation 20 to 25 years later when everyone has a little more disposable income after raising kids, etc. Many of us in our 40s-50s would like to recapture a little lost youth. When I was a kid (70s and 80s) the 1957 chevys and 1960s muscle cars were popular and the new cars were Monte Carlos, Cutlasses, and Regals, as well as Trans-Ams and Mustangs. Now I see those 80s cars starting to get popular again as vintage. You are likely a good 15-20 years away from having your Solara really hit the vintage market. You may want to check out publications like www.autotraderonline.com to get an idea of worth. Make sure you check Kelly Blue Book as a specialty vehicle (www.kbb.com). There is section on collector cars, but I suspect you are in the general car category. At nine years old and 31K works out to be under 3500 mi per year, but with a specialty car like that it may not be unusual. I see many 2000-2003 two-seater Thunderbirds with ultra low milage as they are rarely daily drivers. You'll gain a lot going to car shows for your car of interest. I belong to the Ford Galaxie Club of America. There are lots for camaros, mustangs, fairlanes, etc. There are car clubs at the national, state, and local levels, some general like all fords (www.lovefords.org), and some specific like ford galaxie (www.galaxieclub.com), and some regional like central Ohio (www.unitedfordowners.com). Google Solara Club or even Toyota Club and see if anything turns up. You are usually in the best position to determine its value to you. If you really like it, keep it. If your situation is such that you really need a different vehicle, shop around and see. The internet opens up a national/international market for your Solara. Just be careful of those shipping scams where someone from Africa asks you to hold a cashier's check while you wire $$$ to cover international shipping somewhere... Hope this helps out. Have a great day !! John

A:there good cars and fun to drive but be prepared to pay a little cash, check and see if it still has the original clutch you still may be able to see meat on the disc but that means nothing, check to see if the rubber disk is cracked. the have an exceptional limp home feature for when the clutch fails you can hardly tell, depending on the miles, check the clutch and CV joints for wear if you do it your self your looking at any where from 400 to around a thousand. the cheapest clutch is around 400 on sale and the can go up to 1000 or higher, CV joints i have found from 65 to $100 a piece and surprising you can find parts at your local auto parts store. i my experience they aren't any harder than working on a for or Chevy if you have a good mechanical background but if your worried about money and the cost of parts maybe this isn't the car for you, i would suggest looking at a few web sites to get an idea of what you will be spending. overall i love mine and will probably always own one. good luck, as for using the Audi and VW parts they already are when you pull the parts out of the car they are already stamped with their emblems not Porsche the cost is going to depend on where you buy them.

A:BMWs produced in the 80's were among the very best cars BMW AG ever produced. I have owned various models going back to a '73 2002, a '74 E9, an '86 E24, '88 E28, and the modern versions including E39s, and the wife's current '08 E60, which are very technologically advanced. My favorites were the E24 and E28 in part because they seem to be of higher quality and their M30 engines, given a reasonable level of care, will run forever. If you have no critical rust issues I would say continue with your restoration and keep the car. If your car is a manual tranny, even better. Feeling the pressure from Japanese automakers, BMW has had to react with features not important to traditional dyed-in-the wool BMW drivers, i.e., I-drive, Ipod hook-ups, cupholders, tire pressure monitors, etc. BMWs from the 80's are closer to "the truth".